Deb and AW venture South part 1

Yet another NZ sunrise to start the week.  Days fly by and before I know it we have been here for 4 months, 1/3 of our time.  Depending on the day this seems like a long time, but most often I get a mild panic feeling in my gut as it feels like our days already are numbered, that departure back to States will be upon us in no time and they will have to take us/me back kicking and screaming.  But I get ahead of myself....

This past Monday was a sad day as we put AW on a plane home after a glorious 3 week visit here.  Not only the first time in over a decade this sweet man has had this length of time off of work, but having him here was so nice in so many ways.  The boys could not wait to have another "man" around the house to share whatever manly things they seem to do (no comment on the toilet seat lids!), and they were the first to comment about his absence.  He and Maggie got to making beaded jewelry together with her Xmas beading kit and have a new cottage industry ahead of them-watch for them at your local farmer's markets! And I of course relished so much of him-his adult company first of all, his humor and ability to help me keep things in perspective and his sense of adventure to join me in exploring this country more to name a few.

So once work was done on the 27th and AW was back from Mtn biking with Santi's husband Laurie on some rather rough terrain on the 28th, we loaded up on the ghetto van as we kindly refer to our 1993 Toyota diesel van, on what you can see was a rather wet and grizzly day here in the Mount, and drove South to Wellington, capitol city, where a ferry would take us to the South Island.

We drove through beautiful country, a few hours through torrential rain as happens here, a few hours where we could actually see the farms and small towns pass us by.  The main highway south through the North Island is two lanes most of the way, and road at times torturous, but we putted along and after 8 hours arrived in Wellington to some sunshine and amazing views.  As the capitol one can sense the pulse here of a dynamic urban scape.  High rise buildings, an active port, many more people, and yet still very clean, very friendly, very impressive.  A bit like San Fran with its steep hills and houses tucked in and up around every corner, but much smaller.  Without much plan, we ended up staying at the Museum Hotel (incredible art collection on every floor!) in downtown, across from the Te Papa National Museum, which is a must for any visitor.  So much there (including the BEST geology exhibit I have ever seen on plate tectonics and earthquakes!) to see it would take one days to cover it all, but we got a sample and parked our van in their lot for the 9 days we would be South.

This is panoramic view of Wellington Harbor from atop Victoria Peak. 

And here we are excited about our journey!

AW inside the Te Papa as we perused the natural history end of things-exhibits on every kind of shell and sea life to the huge marine mammals in the near by waters.  Great exhibit on the Giant Squid!

And the shark scene outside our hotel, graffiti style, was amazing for city art.  Each in different color combo with some personality quirk to entertain the senses!  Fun to look at!

More Wellington city scape-large playground slide in shape of lighthouse.  Can you see the seagull on top?

Have to admit this city has one of the most remarkable and user friendly wharf areas I have ever seen.  Long promenades with shops, cafe's, the Te Papa, kayak rentals, rock climbing indoors, a rowing club, great art as you can see from these cool sea urchins, ferries to take you South, as well as big building with offices to conduct all the business end of things.  With only a day we obviously scratched the smallest surface, but know this city deserves a closer look.  Forgot to mention the whole movie scene here as well with big studio of Peter Jackson's and the whole LOTR's history for those keen on the Ring thing!

Here is our ferry for the Cook Straight crossing-famous for rough seas.  Prone to seasickness and thanks once again to Cathy H, I was well prepped and medicated and slept most of the 3+ hour trip, awaking to our arrival in Picton, in the heart of Queen Charlotte Sound, a lovely little village of a place.  Used to be just a ferry drop of for folks en route South, but has grown up a bit and offers a nice place to rest and jump of for adventures in the Sound.  Soon after our arrival and while taking in the local scene we were greeted to a double rainbow over town!

Picton Harbor in the sunshine.  Wish I could say it was always like this during our time, but the rain followed us a bit and made for some epic days.

Here is AW as we prepare to take the water taxi with our hired Mtn bikes over to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track.  This is a classic NZ tramp, famous and well traveled.  It follows a ridge line for approx 80 km, most will walk this in 4-5 days, with shelters/lodges/resorts to accommodate those staying along the track.  one can also walk part of it as a day hike and get picked up at various spots by water taxi.  We chose the Mtn biking option with a plan to do it all in 2 days.  Day 1: gorgeous sunshine, had a bit of a Tiki tour along the way to our drop off as the taxi stopped at a variety of locales to drop off others, pick up laundry and recycling from some, drop off produce and beverages to resorts.  The Sound in general is a bit like Puget Sound with way fewer folk and homes.  And the water is such a great emerald color!

Here we are at our drop off, about to head off on what we thought would be a rather easy trail along the ridge.  Had a cider and bit to eat before heading out in the sunshine.

Typical scene from that first day.  Many stops to enjoy yet another gorgeous view of the Sound.  Trail was not so easy it turned out.  In typical Kiwi fashion there were lots of steep uphills and downhills.  It was all doable for most part, but not the gentle grade we expected.

Looking down onto Kenepuru Sound, famous for its mussel farms

So our first day (31st Dec) ended at Portage Bay where we would ring in the New Year!  The lodge there was full so we banked on camping at Cowshed Cove.  Luckily for a small fee we could have our backpacks transported to the lodge via water taxi and we would carry them the 300m to the campsite, allowing us to still enjoy a drink or two at the lodge's cafe.  Again reminiscent of Gulf Islands/San Juan Islands with many fewer people.

Looking back at Portage Bay

Our campsite.  When we arrived we thought the campground looked pretty full and tucked our tent into a small space, only to find upon returning from our drinks that there was still plenty of room for more cars and many more people to join the scene.  We were asleep by 9:30pm while our neighbors reveled well into the wee hours, I think 3:30 am was the last I heard of them, but then I dropped back off to sleep so who knows.  Happy 2014!

our sweet little spot

Nice hair after a day of riding

Day 2 Queen Charlotte Track: Happy New Year!!  Getting an early start on the track.  Awoke to patchy clouds and some sunshine in between.  Little did I know what was ahead!

Initial few kms of track was straight uphill.  We had been told there might be some pushing bikes uphill but figured we might be riding some of it.  Turns out we pushed those bikes right up the hill into the darkening, thundering sky.  For those familiar with my pathologic fear of lightening, this had all the makings of disaster waiting to happen.  Within an hour or so of being on the trail, the sky opened up and it deluged!  Within minutes the trail was a river, I tried to deny the rumblings overhead was actually thunder until the flash of light confirmed my worst nightmare.  And still we were climbing up to the ridge line!  What part of this picture does not make sense?  I did my best to keep my wits about me, warning AW that I may bolt at any minute.  See my face below-barely keeping it together!

Hopefully you get some idea of how wet and muddy we are, here's looking down at my leg, a bit of a mess.  After awhile it was humorous (once the lightning had passed of course!).  No where else to go but forward and the rain kept coming!

Ended the day with a great downhill ride into Anakiwa and that small open shelter awaiting us.  There we sat until the water taxi arrived to take us back to Picton.  In the end, a glorious track, and stunning views.  It was great to arrive back into town at the Tombstone Backpackers and a hot shower!